Lobster Logic
Lobster Facts
Tank Facts
Nitrite Cycles
Never Do This
Copper Kills
Inspecting/Purging
Lobsters ON DELIVERY
Maintenance
Do I Gotta Feed These Bugs?
Top Ten Reasons Why Your Lobsters
Are Dying
How To Cook A Bug (dead,
or alive)
Why Do You Call Them 'Bugs'?
Trouble Shooting
Foam
Algae
Tank Parts
Marineland's Website
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What You Should Know About Your Lobsters
-
Lobsters are air breathing animals
– they’re not fish! Therefore they must be kept
in an oxygen rich environment at all times, or else they will
drown.
-
Lobsters are crustaceans –
which means hard-shell.
-
Lobsters are hydraulically
operated. That’s right hydraulics. Instead
of muscles and blood, they push internal fluids from body chamber,
to body chamber. That’s what gives them their incredible,
and inexhaustible strength.
-
When lobsters lose their body
fluids they begin to fall apart; First their tail
separates from their body - exposing meat. Then their
shells soften and become slimy. Finally unable to hold
together the body elements fall apart.
- It takes up
to 7 years for a cold water lobster to grow its first pound,
and 3 years for each additional pound thereafter. Whereas
warm water lobsters can reach 1 pound within a couple of years.
- Lobster molt
their exterior skeleton in the summer (soft shell) and that's
how they grow.
- Only cold water
lobsters have claws .
- Lobsters can
live up to 10 days out of the water.
- Lobster do not
scream when placed in boiling water. That sound in
merely the air passing through the animals exterior skeleton.
- Always place
a lobster head first into a kettle of boiling water.
- Lobsters do
have teeth, but they're located in their stomachs - which
are located in their heads.
- Lobsters carry
their eggs in their tails. Never place an 'egger' in
to your tank. Instead return it to your lobster provider immediately.
What You Should Know
About Your Aquarium
- The most
important thing to keep in mind is that your 'established'
lobster tank is as alive as the animals it keeps alive.
That's right. In establishing a tank you create in
the biological filter (pads/bio-rocks/elements) of that aquarium
a living bacteria that breaks down all the pollutants thrown
out by the lobsters. It's what keeps the tank in balance.
- Balance
is very important because the amount of bacteria in your
system will raise and fall to accommodate the amount of
animals in the tank. Said in real english - if your tank
usually holds 20lbs. of animals, then its bacteria level is
set for 20lbs. So now if you suddenly jump from 20lbs.
of animals to 40lbs. then you've double the amount of waste your
20lbs. of bacteria can process. The bacteria is out numbered, overrun
and fast destroyed. End result - everything dies, including
the tank.
- Keep load
levels as consistent as possible.
- Increase load
levels slowly over the course of days ,
not seconds .
One single shinny penny in the bottom
of your tank can wipe out your entire system in NO-TIME!
Copper kills Crustaceans!
Inspection & Purging
-
All incoming animals should
be inspected to be assured that all animals entering your
system are undamaged, free from cracks, that their shells
are hard, and that the animals sprites are aggressive.
Any questionable animals should be refused and returned to its
provider.
-
After inspection the animals
should be dipped into a separate container of SALTWATER
(from the tank) and agitated (purged) before entering the tank.
Purging needs to last only a few good seconds.
-
Purging animals removes debris
(sand/seaweed) from the animals body and expels
waste and undigested food from the internal system. Moreover
it keeps your tank clean and healthy.
-
Check your tank for foam daily.
Foam is a direct indicator that there's a dead or dying
animal in your system. Remove any questionable animals
and associated foam as needed.
-
Un-removed dead animals, or
food substances, quickly deteriorate and poisons the
entire system.
-
Remember, your tank is an enclosed
environment - and one bad animal can kill the entire
tank.
When In Doubt - Leave
It OUT!
(1) Only use lobster
providers that first quarantine their product in holding
tanks before reaching your store.
(2) Keep lobsters banded
at all times.
(3) Refuse any questionable
animals on delivery.
(4) Questionable animals
are lifeless, cracked, missing limbs or are showing meat
where the tail meets the body.
(5) Purge all animal
before introducing them into your system.
10) The tank just
hasn't got any power
9) But, it's
easier to use the hose that's hooked up to the sanitizer
8) Hey, there's
a shinny penny in my tank
7) I always use
the same bucket to fill the tank and slop down the floors
6) Because they're
skipping too many meals
5) Those limbs were
attached when they came in
4) We crack'um
before we cooks'um
3) Who says Draino
won't clear a clogged tank
2) They're on special
sale today, we had to overload the tank
1) Because everybody's
got to go sometime
It’s Up To You To Keep The Crap Out Of Your Tank!!!
And Any Crap In Your Tank,
Is Put There By YOU!
In the cold water, the animals
do not require feeding
Feeding the animals only pollutes
your system
and pollution kills
How To Cook A Bug
Dead, or
Alive
12 minutes per pound - steam, or boil
Dead Bugs
Should Be Cooked
Dead animals are consumable as long as the
meat is still firm, with no 'Fishy' odor and that the tail
curls tightly after cooking.
Why Do They Call Them
Bugs?
Lobsters are arthropod's
and are therefore the first
cousin to
the Cockroach - Just as
Crabs are kissing cousins to
Spiders
.
Shrimp to Silver Fish. Etc.,
Etc., Etc.
Bon Ap'atit
Artificial
Bacteria
- Artificial bacteria
can give your tank an extra boost of bacteria when introducing
new animals or when increasing load levels rapidly. It's
a substitute bacteria that gives the real bacteria time to grow
and balance your system. We recommend that you use an artificial
bacteria called BN1A. BN1A is 12 strains of bacteria and it also
eliminates/prevents ammonia and nitrite build ups.
The Nitrite Cycle
The Nitrite cycle is what gives life
to your tanks biological bed. Here's
how it works.
- You get a brand new, sparkling
clean and sterile tank.
- Following the manufacturers
instruction on loading you add animals to your perfectly clean
environment.
- Now lobsters have to do
what we all have to do - do. If you get my drift.
But now your perfectly sterile tank is getting dirty.
- The lobster garbage collects
and begins to grow a very toxic bacteria in the rocks and pads
(i.e. Biological filter bed) of your system.
- This toxic bacteria keeps
growing and growing, and then after about two weeks of growth
you begin to see real signs of how toxic your once perfectly sterile
tank has become.
- The water turns a black
cloudy - it begins to stink. Foam builds up and your lobster
start to die.
- What's happening is that
the garbage from the lobsters has grown so toxic that it just
can't grow anymore and it begins to convert.
- It converts into a living
bacteria that eats lobster garbage - and that's what keeps your
tank in balance.
- Never
interrupt a tank going through its initial nitrite cycle by doing
a water change. RESIST TEMPTATION - DO NOTHING!
- The tank itself will take
care of it own mess within about 48 to 60 hours.
- Most important
- during the nitrite cycle you must always keep living animals
in the tank, and the dead ones out. It's the living animals
that will drive the cycle to completion. Without them the cycle
stops and waits.
- Your tank only needs to
go through a nitrite cycle once - unless you kill its bacteria.
Which usually only happens it you overload your system - or if
you over clean your system.
Never
Do This
- Never use
a hose that has ever had ANYTHING but water ran through it (i.e.
sanitizer, soap, cleaner, etc.,)
- Never use
a bucket/sponge or brush that has ever been used for anything
other than cleaning a lobster tank.
- Never Overload
your system.
- Never unplug
your tank for any period of time.
- Never over
clean your tank.
- Never clean
your tank with cleaners or soaps.
- Never clean
a biological filter bed with fresh water.
- Never leave
dead animal in your tank.
- Never put
unhealthy animal into your system.
- Never paint
or spray anything - including cleaner around your tank.
- Never allow
ANYTHING in your tank besides animals.
- Never allow
the water level to drop below the manufacturers recommendation.
- Never mix
unbounded lobster with crabs.
- Never decorate
the interior of your tank.
- Never mix
lobsters with clams, oyster, mussels, etc.,
- Never reach
into a tank with greasy, fatty, soapy, or bloody hands.
- Never let
it be said that you weren't warned.
Maintenance
Daily
Keep Load Levels Consistent Always.
Due to the cold temperatures in ‘Live Seafood Displays’, bacteria
levels in the biological filter bed adjust to their product ‘load
level’ slowly. So, in times of special promotions product load levels
must be increased gradually in-order to allow the biological filter
bed to grow the additional bacteria needed to neutralize the influx
of animal waste.
When product load levels are increased too quickly
there's a likely risk of collapsing, or even killing the biological
filter bed by overloading it with too much ammonia and nitrite
waste at one time and all your lobsters die. This is the main problem
we find during periods of special promotions and grand openings.
The bacteria in the tank constantly adjust itself
to its load level. So if you normally hold 20 lobsters, the bacteria
adjusts itself to accommodate twenty lobsters – now if you’ve
got a special sale and you load your tank with forty lobsters
-- well there’s only enough bacteria for twenty, and you overload
and collapse your system. All your lobsters die.
Remove ALL Foreign Matter
(especially food, body parts, or pennies) that enters your system.
Copper Warning - One single shinny penny in the bottom of your
tank can wipe out your entire system in no time. Copper kills
lobsters/crabs/shrimps. Do not feed the animals!
Inspect & Purge All Incoming Animals - All
incoming animals should be inspected by the meat or seafood manager
to be assured that all animals entering your system are undamaged,
free from disease, cracks, that their shells are hard (in addition;
lobster should be firmly held together where the tail meets the body),
and that the animals sprites are aggressive. Any questionable
animals should be allowed into your system.
After inspection the animals should be dipped
into a separate container of SALTWATER (from the tank) and agitated
( purged
) before entering the tank. Purging animals
removes debris (sand/seaweed) from the animal’s body and expels
waste and undigested food from their internal systems. Moreover
it keeps your tank clean and healthy.
Weekly
Exterior Tank Cleaning - A vinegar/water
solution (3 tablespoons vinegar to a pint of water) may be used
with a clean rag. NEVER use chemical cleaners, soaps, spray
detergents or any abrasives on any part of the system.
Do not use cleaners inside or near the tank at
any time. NEVER spray insecticides within 20 feet of you tank.
The resulting contamination could kill your animals and destroy
your biological filter. If you must use insecticides, be certain
to turn your tank off and cover the system until the insecticide odor
has cleared completely – and don't forget to restart your tank. Keep
all aquarium cleaning materials clean and isolated from other departments
so they do not get contaminated by multiple task usage.
Interior Tank Cleaning - Remove algae growth with
a manufacturer recommended acrylic cleaning pad or NON-ABRASIVE
foam aquarium pad on-a-handle.
Keep all aquarium cleaning materials clean and isolated
from other departments so they do not get contaminated by multiple
task usage.
Every Two Weeks
Bi-Weekly Carbon Replacements
- For those who opt to use just one carbon bag at a time. Replace
the carbon bag located inside filter canister. (Rinse clean before
using)
Check Bio Wheel – Be certain that the air pump
is functioning – that the bio wheel is turning and that the water
level in the container is approximately two inches deep.
Every Four Weeks
Monthly Carbon Replacement - For
those who opt to use two carbon bags at a time. Replace one carbon
bag located inside filter canister. (Rinse clean before using)
Check Bio Wheel – Be certain that the air pump
is functioning – that the bio wheel is turning and that the water
level in the container is approximately two inches deep.
Remove Dust From Refrigeration Vents – Brush or
blow away all accumulated dust and debris from the grill plate
– this will prevent the unit from overheating and burning out the
unit.
Trouble Shooting
If the entire system shuts
down
1) Reset circuit breaker in
main electrical panel.
2) Reset circuit breaker on
power cord located inside the tanks pedestal.
3) Make sure master switch on
power cord is on.
4) Make sure unit is plugged
in.
If the water turns yellow or develops an odor
1) Replace carbon bag. Carbon
eliminate color and smell.
2) Make sure bio-wheel unit
and air pump are operating - and that all airlines are attached.
3) Make sure water pump is operational,
and not overheating.
4) Check for dead or dying animals.
5) Treat with BN1A
to eliminate ammonia build ups.
If the water temperature
is too hot or too cold
1) Check thermostat setting. NOTE:
Allow 3-4 hours for temperature to stabilize before checking
again.
2) Make sure the power cord
to refrigeration unit is plugged in,
3) Inspect intake vents located
under the pedestal and on the refrigeration units condensing
screen.
4) Clean if necessary. Check exterior
side vents for blockage by debris or other matter.
Mortality
If one or two lobsters die shortly after arrival
it’s usually because they were damaged or weakened during shipment.
This is normal – just remove lobster from tank immediately upon
discovery. A treatment of BN1A
is also recommended.
If a large number of lobster die in clear water
(And if the animal are kicking) some toxic substance has been
introduced to the system. A complete water change, change
of carbon and cleaning of the bio pad in fresh mix batch of salt water
is advised. Also daily treatments with BN1A
is also recommended.
If a large number of lobster die in hazy water
it’s generally an indication of overloading the system by having
either added more pounds of animals than recommended, or having
not purged the animals before placing them into the system. A 100%
water change and change of carbon is recommended. Also daily treatments
of BN1A
is also recommended.
Foam
- Foam occurs when the oxygen in your
tank turns undissolved proteins (i.e. blood and fecal matter) into
foam and then floats it on top of the water - trying to remove it
from its system.
- This foam is very similar to the
foam of a breaking wave being pushed out of the ocean and thrown into
the biological sand filters of the beachhead.
- Foam is a warning
signal that there's something wrong in your system.
- Foam only occurs when you introduce
new animals that have not been properly purged, or if there's a
dead or dying animal in the system.
- Always remove the
source of the foam (i.e. dead or dying animals).
- Always remove any
collecting foam on discovery.
- Foam that is not removed continues
to breakdown until the biological filter finally dissolves it.
Algae
- Oxford Dictionary states that: Algae
is a non flowering stemless water plant - ala' seaweed/plankton.
- Algae DOES NOT represent MODINESS - nor is it FUNGI
. That would imply that algae is bacteria - which IT IS NOT.
- Algae occurs naturally where ever
light, seed (being brought in on the lobsters) and fertilizer (that
comes in with the lobsters too) come together.
- When you wipe away algae it stays
in the tank and re-attaches and grows somewhere else.
Algae
Wipe it down & get over it.
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